Feliz Navidad!

 

Feliz Navidad from Antigua, Guatemala, everyone! I have so much to share since our last post. Volcanos. Ancient Healing Rites. Petrified Waterfalls, just to name a few. but today I just wanted to send you the best and craziest Christmas experiences we've had so far and wish you all happy holidays!

For those who don't know, holiday season in Latin America begins December 4th and continues - with fervor and firecrackers - until January 6th. The "official" start is December 12th, known as the beginning of Guadalupe-Reyes, or the Mexican marathon that is the Christmas season. 

Every morning, around 5 am, the firecrackers begin and go off sporadically all day, peaking at midnight most nights. And the decorations! Let's get started on those.

Thule, Oaxaca, December 5, 2025

The above video is Thule town square on December 5, 2025. The lights come on at sundown, blaze riotously for a few hours, then are turned off around 8 pm. Then the town shuts down, everyone heads to private parties (if it's a weekend, as far as the firecrackers seem to indicate).

Local cafe, decorated for Christmas. Note the "historically-accurate" Christmas trees:)

December 4, and we're already wearing Christmas hats and decorating some weird Instagram "eye".

Fun fact: Thule is famous for having the world's "stoutest" tree, the Arbol de Thule, which is roughly 1,400 years old (according to Indigenous reckoning, in line with scientific estimates).

In these early weeks, one of the stranger sites we saw beginning in early December were the many torch runners travelling by foot carrying Olympic torches, or by bike or tinseled car, down every major highway, making their way from their hometowns to the key churches in the region for the most important Mexican celebration: Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe. The torch runners may travel for days, even weeks, to get to their churches. They take these epic (and highly dangerous) treks to "keep a promise" that they've made to Saint Guadalupe, often in honor of the long distance Mary and Joseph traveled on their way to Bethlehem.

Torch bearers on bikes, making their way to the church in San Cristobel

 de las Casas

 

When they arrive, it's a huge procession down the streets of the town, culminating in a fun fair at the local churches and a mass (in our case) at the Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, which is decorated inside and out with flowers - lilies, roses, jasmine. The smell is the most floral, sweet scent I've ever inhaled.

The Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe decorated for Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe

The Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe decorated for Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe

Virgen de Guadalupe Fun Fair. Note the Jim Morrison ride:)

Instagram Christmas houses decorating the square in San Cristobel

 de las Casas

Our San Cristobel de las Casas hearth

Our common room, San Cristobel de la Casas

Another big fad here? Christmas sweaters, Christmas trees, and Instragramable photo opps, of course.

Magic mushroom Christmas installation

Christmas sweaters, December 4, 2025

Oaxacan Christmas Tree (Canada in Spanish translates to a small gully, or ravine - or a cattle track, in this case)

Crossing into Guatemala December 19th, the decorations became more religious, and (slightly) less ubiquitous  - except for the fireworks. Always the fireworks.

A very popular activity is creating your own nativity scene. It's so big here that a whole section of the mercado is dedicated to mosses, apple garlands, and nativity creches and figurines with such historical features as "goiters" (to demonstrate poverty and need).

Lady with goiter

Coolest find in Antigua, Guatemala? A free display of dioramas depicting the Christmas story, only set in Antigua with the local saint, Hermano Pedro, playing central roles in each scene. Here are a few highlights.

Market scene set in the Antigua main square

Creche with Antigua volcano in the backgrounds

Guatemalan shepherds receiving news of Christ's birth

Mary and Joseph getting turned away at the Inn (a real hotel in Antigua!)

Lastly, there are the processions and plays that run from December 16th right up to Christmas Eve. Here in Antigua, Mary and Joseph and crowds of locals move up and down the streets in floats. 

Cohen with Mary, Joseph, two of the three Kings and one Hernando Pedro.

One of many Christmas processions leading up to the "big night"

It all culminates in Christmas Eve, where Giant Paper Mache puppets dance towards the main church and crowds of faithful follow behind. There's a big party in the square, lots of dancing and mariachi, before the procession moves in for Christmas Eve mass. All through the square you can hear the singing of "Gloria in Excelsus".

 

Giant Paper Mache Kings, Queens and Giant Heads (and Avocados) Dancing in front of the Church before Christmas Eve Mass.

Christmas Eve with the volcano in the background

Christmas Eve dinner in the square. Yes, I am wearing a puffy (recovering from altitude sickness - news for another post)

And of course, the final touch? A crazy cacophony of fireworks going off at midnight. Here's Cohen's recording, straight from the "war zone".

Now we're off to make tamales and salsas for Christmas Day! Enjoy everyone, and sending all our love to those we can't be with today.

Remembrances of Beaches Past

 

From the mountains, it was back to the beaches we'd once traveled all those years ago, hopping on clase primero buses with their broken banos, hugging our oversized backpacks and eating mangos on sticks.

The itinerary this time pretty much followed the one we took 25+ years ago: Patzcauro -> Zihuatanejo -> Pie de la Cuesta ->Ventura -> Laguna de Manialtepec -> Puerto Escondito. 

Photo essay follows in what I think is some sort of order:

Sunset over Zihuatanejo, or "Zihua" as it is affectionately called

Us on the beach.

Dinner at "El Manglar", our campsite beside the crocodile estuary.

Pie de la Cuesta, as beautiful and rough as ever. One beach was called "bone crusher". Not for swimmers!

Roadside pit stop in the middle of nowhere for a lemonade.

Ventura - the beach went on forever and ever...

Pina Coladas at Ventura

Cheers to the Ventura sunset. A magical moment followed by horror as we were eaten alive by sandflies. Which explains why we were the only idiots lounging on the beach after dark.

Our campsite at Ventura - the sandfly nursery.

The laguna - apparently there's bioluminescence if you swim at night. Which was tempting, but during our afternoon we kayaked and spotted some crocodile-like "logs" move strangely across the water, so we stuck to the day tour.

And another shot for good measure because it was beautiful.

So what's changed since our last visit? For one, the towns are way bigger and development along the coast has been significant. The roads are way better, if a lot more expensive. The buses that passed us looked pretty improved too, like they might not only have functioning banos but might also have air conditioning. I can't even imagine. And while I didn't see any mangos on sticks, they do serve them in cups now (probably more hygienic) and I can report that they are as delicious as ever. 

Our main destination, though, was Puerto Escondido, where we'd spent seven full weeks in the Pueblito on top of the hill near what was once the outside of town. 

When we arrived, we found the main beach chock-a-block with tourist boats and hung-over tourists. 

Breakfast at the main beach

We ate at a place we remembered, near where I had the best red snapper in orange sauce that I have ever had in my life (I still think about that dish, which will surprise no one that knows me). Unfortunately, it is no longer on the menu (was likely a special), and neither is the Carlota de Limon, a "fridge cake" that is now considered "home cooking", and which I gorged on while pregnant.

After breakfast, we tried to walk the famous, romantic Andador Toursitica. Back in the day, we could walk all the way from our Pueblito near the Manzanillia reef to town along the stone path, just above the crashing ocean waves, past Mexican couples cuddling and making out under the lights in the hidden nooks and crannies. 

Unfortunately, the 2025 Hurricane Erik has smashed the main bridge, and the rest of the pathway hasn't stood the test of time.

Hurricane-decimated Andador Toursitica

It was sad to see the destruction, but also strangely reminiscent, too, since the last time we were in Puerto Escondido we'd arrived while the town was still recovering from the devastating hurricane Paulina, which at the time was one of the deadliest storm to hit Mexico. The streets were torn up, hotels under construction were abandoned, and the town was practically deserted - which was why we got such a cheap rate on our two-bedroom unit in El Pueblito. 

Ivan outside the gates of our old apartment, which once stood all alone at the top of the hill but is now crowded all around by condos

We snuck in to see the same pool! So many memories in the pool.

We parked up at the top of the hill just outside El Pueblito and swam and snorkeled in our old beach, Playa Manzanillo. There had been one small restaurant in the past, but now the lounge chairs went all the way to the high tide mark and tourist boats filled the once-empty bay. Still, the water was beautifully clear, and the reefs full of fishes, from puffers to angels, just like I remembered.

We finished our walk through memory lane by visiting the mercado, gorging on jumbo-sized jugos and cheap tortas. I ordered the "vampiro" - beet, carrot, orange, and celery. Delicious, but a warning to all: 1 litre of that amount of fibre is not a good choice before a road trip. Take my word for it.

El mercado municipal

A bread made for the upcoming festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12

Ivan's mom had warned us that Puerto Escondido had changed. And yes, it has been over developed. The downtown camping area had the air of a homeless encampment. Booze and cheap tourist dance bars were everywhere. The once-pristine main beach was smothered with tourist boats and litter.

But to be honest, I've changed too. I'm not that pregnant, vegetarian hippie reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance and Manufacturing Consent. I've caved on a few ideals myself, over the years.

But here's the thing about Puerto: the town is fighting back. It always fights back. After Hurricane Paulina, after our first visit, the town rebuilt itself. Maybe a bit too much, granted. Now their famous surfer mecca at Zipolete is under threat, and their Andador Touristica is wiped out. But the town is organizing to save them both. 

And that's why I will always love Puerto, no matter how grungy or over crowded it gets. No matter how old. Or how bashed about by storms. Puerto is something worth saving. Again and again. 

But one look the prices they are charging, and the depressing camping options, Ivan and I decided Puerto may be worth saving and remembering - but it wasn't worth staying at for too long. Not this time. So we high-tailed it to Oaxaca, in search of art, culture and some new memories.

Wishing everyone a good recovery from the early winter, and may the snow stay for a spectacular skiing season!

Patzcauro - Pastors, Peaks and Parkas

With Mexico experiencing a trucker strike, we settled into a motel's RV park in the historic mountain town of Patzcauro for four nights. We had the place all to ourselves, the only gringos for miles - even the Mexicans were hesitant to risk getting stuck inland.

Stone carving typical of the area, this one embedded in our motel wall

Our motel pool with its statue and glorious garden

Close up of the statue, with our communal cabin behind. There's our van in the distance

The wooden fairy bridge we had to cross to go to the bathrooms at the RV park - even a toilet trip was magical

Patzcauro was by far my favourite town in Mexico when we were here last, and I was so happy to see that the place has hardly changed. Then again, it hasn't changed much since the Mexican Revolution, when it was first preserved, according to most reports.

Founded some time around 1320, the village is one of Mexico's first "Peublos Magicos" and is unique in that it still maintains a strong indigenous presence despite the years of colonial rule. Plus, the gardens! Don't even get me started on the gardens.

So as not to bore people with the essays I could write on my favourite Mexican town (so far), below are our top 5 experiences in Patzcauro:

1. Patzcauro Chic

The town walls and signs are all maintained in a unique, unified style that immediately lets you know where you are. Some of the stores (and some of the clothes) might make you question what century you are in, but the aesthetic lends a feeling of earth and straw, mud and sky, wood and water - all set against the smell of charcoal grills and pastor tacos turning on spits. Walking the cobblestone streets takes you back centuries.

Typical store signage with red and black letters

A typical tienda

Another tienda, still decorated for day of the dead

Typical ceramics

Inside a Patzcauro indoor patio

Patzcauro courtyard

Templo del Sandtuario

2. Cerro del Estribo Grande

Despite being really high up - so high up I had to don my puffy jacket at night - we ran up or hiked up a mountain pretty much every day, often stopping at the top to use the Mexican exercise equipment, which pretty much consisted of one rusty bike, a sit up bench, and some weird, retro "waist whittler" called the FLZ Body Twister. Don't knock that thing - I felt sore in my waist for days afterwards!

Our favourite hike was the Cerro del Estribo Grande, which takes you up 422 steps, then across a steep ridge overlooking the city. We climbed those suckers twice (stopping midway each time to bend over double and catch my breath) - that's how much I loved that hike.

Estribo Grande hike along the cliffs

Autumn flowers on top of the cliff

Our van, looking out at Lake Patzcauro

3. Janitzio Island

See that island in the middle of the last picture? That's Janitzio, an island that is covered, every inch, by houses. Once, the island housed fishermen specialized in "butterfly fishing". (Watch a 15-minute 1937 documentary film, "Primitive Patzcauro" on it here.) They only do it for the tourists now, and it does look like it was a lot of hard work for some very tiny fish, to be honest, so I get why they don't fish that way anymore.

Now the island is full of people selling boob mugs and ypenis mugs. Unfortunately, I did not manage to get a picture of them and they are not available online, so here's the closest  (cleaned-up) approximation to what lines the historic steps of Janitzio. 

There isn't a stairwell that isn't packed, but still, it's pretty amazing to see how they fit a high school gym in the middle of those labyrinthine streets, along with a graveyard. The highlight was the boat ride with a mariachi band, and climbing up into the statue's wrist to look out across Lake Patzcauro, You follow a twisting, steep, not-for-the-afraid-of-heights-crowd staircase to the "wrist view". All the way up are these graphic paintings of the life of local hero José María Morelos, one of which has a guy getting decapitated and the final mural (gigantic) is Morelos getting shot by firing squad. Dramatic and mesmerizing all at the same time.

Approaching Janitzio

Almost there!

At the top, ready to climb Jose

Stepping down. Carefully.

View from Jose's wrist

4. $15 Peso Pastor: While we did eat in the expensive tourist restaurants around the town square, the best food we had was the cheap eats at the bus stop where locals ate before going to work. We're talking $15 pesos ($1.15 CAD) pastor tacos with all the toppings. Top foods were street tacos, artisanal pizzas, "pasta" nieve (Patzcauro ice cream), and michelados.

Special of the day: 4 Tacos el Pastor and a Mexican Torta (sandwich) with a drink for $110 pesos (~$8 CAD)

The $15 Peso Taco. Never to be forgotten.

Michelados, three for one special!. Ooey, gooey, sticky chamoy on the glass' edge, embedded with crushed peanuts. Inside: beer, lime, lemon, Worcester sauce and other choices, such as shrimp, gummy worms and other tasty treats.

5. Fire in the Hearth: My final favourite memory of Patzcauro is having a wood fire in their ancient clay hearth in our campsite's tiny, shared cabin while we watched the sky darken over the nearby pond. Because it doesn't get better than that.

Fire in the hearth

But after a three nights of toques and puffies, it was time to head back to the sun and sand to warm up, refresh the rapidly fading tans and make our way to our favourite beach haunt, Peurto Escondito.

Hope you are all keeping well, and warm, and sending some Mexican fire your way!