Remembrances of Beaches Past

 

From the mountains, it was back to the beaches we'd once traveled all those years ago, hopping on clase primero buses with their broken banos, hugging our oversized backpacks and eating mangos on sticks.

The itinerary this time pretty much followed the one we took 25+ years ago: Patzcauro -> Zihuatanejo -> Pie de la Cuesta ->Ventura -> Laguna de Manialtepec -> Puerto Escondito. 

Photo essay follows in what I think is some sort of order:

Sunset over Zihuatanejo, or "Zihua" as it is affectionately called

Us on the beach.

Dinner at "El Manglar", our campsite beside the crocodile estuary.

Pie de la Cuesta, as beautiful and rough as ever. One beach was called "bone crusher". Not for swimmers!

Roadside pit stop in the middle of nowhere for a lemonade.

Ventura - the beach went on forever and ever...

Pina Coladas at Ventura

Cheers to the Ventura sunset. A magical moment followed by horror as we were eaten alive by sandflies. Which explains why we were the only idiots lounging on the beach after dark.

Our campsite at Ventura - the sandfly nursery.

The laguna - apparently there's bioluminescence if you swim at night. Which was tempting, but during our afternoon we kayaked and spotted some crocodile-like "logs" move strangely across the water, so we stuck to the day tour.

And another shot for good measure because it was beautiful.

So what's changed since our last visit? For one, the towns are way bigger and development along the coast has been significant. The roads are way better, if a lot more expensive. The buses that passed us looked pretty improved too, like they might not only have functioning banos but might also have air conditioning. I can't even imagine. And while I didn't see any mangos on sticks, they do serve them in cups now (probably more hygienic) and I can report that they are as delicious as ever. 

Our main destination, though, was Puerto Escondido, where we'd spent seven full weeks in the Pueblito on top of the hill near what was once the outside of town. 

When we arrived, we found the main beach chock-a-block with tourist boats and hung-over tourists. 

Breakfast at the main beach

We ate at a place we remembered, near where I had the best red snapper in orange sauce that I have ever had in my life (I still think about that dish, which will surprise no one that knows me). Unfortunately, it is no longer on the menu (was likely a special), and neither is the Carlota de Limon, a "fridge cake" that is now considered "home cooking", and which I gorged on while pregnant.

After breakfast, we tried to walk the famous, romantic Andador Toursitica. Back in the day, we could walk all the way from our Pueblito near the Manzanillia reef to town along the stone path, just above the crashing ocean waves, past Mexican couples cuddling and making out under the lights in the hidden nooks and crannies. 

Unfortunately, the 2025 Hurricane Erik has smashed the main bridge, and the rest of the pathway hasn't stood the test of time.

Hurricane-decimated Andador Toursitica

It was sad to see the destruction, but also strangely reminiscent, too, since the last time we were in Puerto Escondido we'd arrived while the town was still recovering from the devastating hurricane Paulina, which at the time was one of the deadliest storm to hit Mexico. The streets were torn up, hotels under construction were abandoned, and the town was practically deserted - which was why we got such a cheap rate on our two-bedroom unit in El Pueblito. 

Ivan outside the gates of our old apartment, which once stood all alone at the top of the hill but is now crowded all around by condos

We snuck in to see the same pool! So many memories in the pool.

We parked up at the top of the hill just outside El Pueblito and swam and snorkeled in our old beach, Playa Manzanillo. There had been one small restaurant in the past, but now the lounge chairs went all the way to the high tide mark and tourist boats filled the once-empty bay. Still, the water was beautifully clear, and the reefs full of fishes, from puffers to angels, just like I remembered.

We finished our walk through memory lane by visiting the mercado, gorging on jumbo-sized jugos and cheap tortas. I ordered the "vampiro" - beet, carrot, orange, and celery. Delicious, but a warning to all: 1 litre of that amount of fibre is not a good choice before a road trip. Take my word for it.

El mercado municipal

A bread made for the upcoming festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12

Ivan's mom had warned us that Puerto Escondido had changed. And yes, it has been over developed. The downtown camping area had the air of a homeless encampment. Booze and cheap tourist dance bars were everywhere. The once-pristine main beach was smothered with tourist boats and litter.

But to be honest, I've changed too. I'm not that pregnant, vegetarian hippie reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance and Manufacturing Consent. I've caved on a few ideals myself, over the years.

But here's the thing about Puerto: the town is fighting back. It always fights back. After Hurricane Paulina, after our first visit, the town rebuilt itself. Maybe a bit too much, granted. Now their famous surfer mecca at Zipolete is under threat, and their Andador Touristica is wiped out. But the town is organizing to save them both. 

And that's why I will always love Puerto, no matter how grungy or over crowded it gets. No matter how old. Or how bashed about by storms. Puerto is something worth saving. Again and again. 

But one look the prices they are charging, and the depressing camping options, Ivan and I decided Puerto may be worth saving and remembering - but it wasn't worth staying at for too long. Not this time. So we high-tailed it to Oaxaca, in search of art, culture and some new memories.

Wishing everyone a good recovery from the early winter, and may the snow stay for a spectacular skiing season!