Feliz Navidad!

 

Feliz Navidad from Antigua, Guatemala, everyone! I have so much to share since our last post. Volcanos. Ancient Healing Rites. Petrified Waterfalls, just to name a few. but today I just wanted to send you the best and craziest Christmas experiences we've had so far and wish you all happy holidays!

For those who don't know, holiday season in Latin America begins December 4th and continues - with fervor and firecrackers - until January 6th. The "official" start is December 12th, known as the beginning of Guadalupe-Reyes, or the Mexican marathon that is the Christmas season. 

Every morning, around 5 am, the firecrackers begin and go off sporadically all day, peaking at midnight most nights. And the decorations! Let's get started on those.

Thule, Oaxaca, December 5, 2025

The above video is Thule town square on December 5, 2025. The lights come on at sundown, blaze riotously for a few hours, then are turned off around 8 pm. Then the town shuts down, everyone heads to private parties (if it's a weekend, as far as the firecrackers seem to indicate).

Local cafe, decorated for Christmas. Note the "historically-accurate" Christmas trees:)

December 4, and we're already wearing Christmas hats and decorating some weird Instagram "eye".

Fun fact: Thule is famous for having the world's "stoutest" tree, the Arbol de Thule, which is roughly 1,400 years old (according to Indigenous reckoning, in line with scientific estimates).

In these early weeks, one of the stranger sites we saw beginning in early December were the many torch runners travelling by foot carrying Olympic torches, or by bike or tinseled car, down every major highway, making their way from their hometowns to the key churches in the region for the most important Mexican celebration: Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe. The torch runners may travel for days, even weeks, to get to their churches. They take these epic (and highly dangerous) treks to "keep a promise" that they've made to Saint Guadalupe, often in honor of the long distance Mary and Joseph traveled on their way to Bethlehem.

Torch bearers on bikes, making their way to the church in San Cristobel

 de las Casas

 

When they arrive, it's a huge procession down the streets of the town, culminating in a fun fair at the local churches and a mass (in our case) at the Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, which is decorated inside and out with flowers - lilies, roses, jasmine. The smell is the most floral, sweet scent I've ever inhaled.

The Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe decorated for Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe

The Templo de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe decorated for Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe

Virgen de Guadalupe Fun Fair. Note the Jim Morrison ride:)

Instagram Christmas houses decorating the square in San Cristobel

 de las Casas

Our San Cristobel de las Casas hearth

Our common room, San Cristobel de la Casas

Another big fad here? Christmas sweaters, Christmas trees, and Instragramable photo opps, of course.

Magic mushroom Christmas installation

Christmas sweaters, December 4, 2025

Oaxacan Christmas Tree (Canada in Spanish translates to a small gully, or ravine - or a cattle track, in this case)

Crossing into Guatemala December 19th, the decorations became more religious, and (slightly) less ubiquitous  - except for the fireworks. Always the fireworks.

A very popular activity is creating your own nativity scene. It's so big here that a whole section of the mercado is dedicated to mosses, apple garlands, and nativity creches and figurines with such historical features as "goiters" (to demonstrate poverty and need).

Lady with goiter

Coolest find in Antigua, Guatemala? A free display of dioramas depicting the Christmas story, only set in Antigua with the local saint, Hermano Pedro, playing central roles in each scene. Here are a few highlights.

Market scene set in the Antigua main square

Creche with Antigua volcano in the backgrounds

Guatemalan shepherds receiving news of Christ's birth

Mary and Joseph getting turned away at the Inn (a real hotel in Antigua!)

Lastly, there are the processions and plays that run from December 16th right up to Christmas Eve. Here in Antigua, Mary and Joseph and crowds of locals move up and down the streets in floats. 

Cohen with Mary, Joseph, two of the three Kings and one Hernando Pedro.

One of many Christmas processions leading up to the "big night"

It all culminates in Christmas Eve, where Giant Paper Mache puppets dance towards the main church and crowds of faithful follow behind. There's a big party in the square, lots of dancing and mariachi, before the procession moves in for Christmas Eve mass. All through the square you can hear the singing of "Gloria in Excelsus".

 

Giant Paper Mache Kings, Queens and Giant Heads (and Avocados) Dancing in front of the Church before Christmas Eve Mass.

Christmas Eve with the volcano in the background

Christmas Eve dinner in the square. Yes, I am wearing a puffy (recovering from altitude sickness - news for another post)

And of course, the final touch? A crazy cacophony of fireworks going off at midnight. Here's Cohen's recording, straight from the "war zone".

Now we're off to make tamales and salsas for Christmas Day! Enjoy everyone, and sending all our love to those we can't be with today.